we’re in Bali 🙂 To busy eating good food (drinking Bintang). Puss Puss
Category Archives: Surf
Hello from Arugam Bay
So finally we got our act together and made the move over to the East coast. Also known as the surfing mecka of Sri Lanka. In a small little fishing village called Arugam Bay is where it’s at.        
Midigama still tried to keep us – giving us with two flat tyres on the way over. I didn’t really notice as was having a good snooze in the back of the van.
So today we’ve been on a tuk tuk tour trying to find some waves. First place we checked out was called peanut farm. It was like peanuts alright. I’d say the tuk tuk driver’s been talking the good waves up a bit…
So we’re checking out another flat spot… It’s still the beginning of the season here and not that much swell around so a lot of the spot’s are not working yet.
Main point in A-bay. Last night the guys had awesome waves. When I went down this morning it was 2ft of tiny mush closing out on the reef. Still 20 people out. The joys of a world famous surf spot I guess 🙂
Sceptical faces. Because we came back to check the waves two hours later…
When the Season is changing
Last night we had the biggest rain so far and I woke up by a thunder that made the windows shake and a lightning show worthy of new years in Sydney. But it’s nice with a change, coming from a country with crappy weather I can never stay inside just bumming around when it’s sunny without feeling like I should go out and do something. So today has been all about reading, watching movies, drinking coffee and enjoying having the house to our selfs (we’re the only guests left and the owners left for a few days in Colombo). The surf season here on the South Coast of Sri Lanka is coming to an end (season is said to be November to April). I think we made the most of it but now there’s a mix of swells, the wind picks up to early and yeah it’s time to move on (there’s still some off season spots to surf if you’d happen to be here during that time). Lucky us the East Coast also has surf (ok the most famous breaks in the country) and the season there is starting right about now 🙂
Surfing With Sylvain
Over the last 8 days i have had to stay out of the water, thats right no surfing for me. I cut my foot & the salt water loves to stop it from healing up. So I had to take a long wait out of the water to let it heal. The good news is I got to do some yoga (try to do yoga alone Hmmmm) and take photos of everyone surf, witch I loved doing anyway so not that bad really. We had Sylvain staying with us at our guest house but I never got to surf with him till last night. It was his last night with us and I thought it would be nice to try out my foot and surf with our new friend. Â Sara took the night off surfing and took control of the camera. Â We had a great surf and Sara took some amazing photos of us <3 …
Labour day in the surf
Pax is on day four or so of not surfing which means I’ve got myself a professional surf photographer for only 15 LKR per hour (that would be like 15 cents). Labour day and all it came with hard work this morning though – low tide and two swells in the mix made it peaky and that pink board spent a lot of time surfing around without me. Still I was the first one out this morning having a few fun ones before the rest of the small crowd decided to paddle out.
This guy showing how it’s done on his single fin.
Spending some quality time in the washing machine…
Photography Duty 101
Today I had the morning off, I have a cut on my foot and its not getting better by being in the water everyday. So i took the morning off and thought it would be nice to get some photos of sara surfing in the morning.. Â We just found out that RED BULL are going to start sponsoring us with our walk to the surf because its so extreme. Most mornings we leave in the dark and have to walk down the path thats full of dangerous obstacles, first its the crazy Dog then the Train that can come at anytime, if you can make all that way without getting hit, you have the most dangerous of all the ROAD. Its full of crazy buses that don’t stop for anything, they will pass on blind corners and ever get 3 buses wide on some parts of the road and thats with out a passing lane. Today Sara was the only one in the water for about an hour, so i got some great shoots before everyone come. It was just us and the fishermen living the early morning dream ..
One of the CRAZY buses —- HELP
The local DoGG always happy to say hi…
Even the Pro’s take some falls !!
Sara and one of the fishermen, just chilling on the morning sun 🙂
Great start to the morning 🙂
South of South
What to do when the surf conditions around the corner won’t make the cut? We packed ourselves on the scooter (look mum – helmets) and headed for the south. We’ve got to know of a little beach down the road (1 or 2 hours away) called Blue beach, that had waves and was meant to be beautiful, so off on the hunt we went. Blue beach wasn’t our first stop we needed a long awaited FOOD stop HMMMMM  we love the food stops.. They don’t have a Pie shop but the have the next best thing the BREAD shop and everyone knows kiwis love bread! So after we loaded ourselves with food (bread) off we went to find Blue beach… It takes a good hour from Midigama to get there but it wasn’t a disappointment.. It was loaded with coconut trees and fun little waves to play on. The only bad thing about Blue beach is everything costs way to much so pack your lunch and lots of water.
Any decent road trip should start with a stop at the pie/roti/bread shop…
Team Norway and Germany is on the road to!
There’s so many spot’s around and so many breaks with pretty much empty lineups.
 
Blue beach an hour south or so – beautiful little beach – even nice if you don’t surf just to spend the day swimming and chilling.
And we had swell
Eating. Sleeping. Watching to many episodes of Games of Thrones. Drinking instant coffees. Surfing some fun and uncrowded waves. Eating cake. Just one more episode. A sunset surf? Another day in paradise.
The Norwegian Super Grom
Our Norwegian sister is the newest and keenest surfer out off all of us (except for when it comes to early morning surfs). So we’ve got a new nick name for her – the super grommet.
What’s a grom she asked?
Wikipedia says:
A grommet (grom) is a young participant in extreme sports. Originally, a grommet was a surfer under the age of 16. In recent years, this has expanded to include other extreme sports, most notably skateboarding and snowboarding.
The super grom has been surfing everyday for the last month and we have seen a massive improvement, even in that short time. Its been cool to see the endless motivation and real stoke, after every surf.. At this rate she will be on the Norwegian world surf tour by the end of the year.. Keep up the good work super grom, you keep us motivated too.  🙂
We’re off for sunset surf/hanging on the rocksÂ
The guys down the road for us was also heading out to.
And she’s off – gotta try to make the most of the last hour of light.
Heading for some golden waves.
Here she is – flying!
Another Boring Sunset Walk :)
So we went on another sunset walk around midigama and this is what we found cheek it out !!!! 
There’s this guy in the surf…
There’s this guy in the surf that doesn’t talk to anyone. He won’t even smile back or look at me when I’m trying give a friendly good morning smile. He will just paddle straight past me like a dark shadow. We’ve shared the lineup just him, me and Pax several times but still no smile, no look, no nod, no nothing and I’ve been thinking he must really have some bad experiences with other people. Then if he doesn’t drop in on your waves he will back paddle you to sit deeper even if he’s just had a wave so no wonder. So by now everyone in the surf calls him Kamikaze. This morning another guy had enough of Kamikaze and they had a big fight in the water. There was to much bad energy in the water so I decided to opt out for breakfast. I guess that’s todays drama from the surf – now it’s coffee time.
Worst surf so far but oh well
I sweet talked Pax and the crew to go for a second surf at midday today – just because it was uncrowded and pretty nice yesterday at the same time. Today it was well still uncrowded but so bumpy and the current was strong anyways still tropical – still paradise and the GoPro decided to tag along to.
Surf Instructor for a day
We’re having a really nice visit from parts of the Westin family – we seem to be in the same places at the same times spread out over the world. So when in Sri Lanka we went surfing 🙂 Welligama is a 10 minute tuk tuk ride away from us, has some fun waves to surf and you can rent boards just on the beach.  Said and done – I had so much fun in the water with these two 🙂 Let’s do it all again tomorrow!
Surf report from Sri Lanka
Been having so much fun in the water the last week, my shoulders are sore my back hurts and I’m all surfed out – it’s such a good feeling. We’re having maybe 2-4 feet of swell since we’ve been here which is perfect – and ohhh did I mention the water is tropical and there’s big turtles popping up for air every now and then – a m a z i n g. Pax got some cuts from the reef and decided to dry them out and take some snaps of me and Mikey a few days ago. 
Photo bomb = first week in Sri Lanka!
After two weeks in Thailand we jumped planes and ended up in a very quiet Sri Lankan village called Midigama not to be confused with Welligama or Mirissa…
There’s not to much going on here except for surfing which is exactly what we are after. So happy to be sharing fun little waves with turtles, and the water is so clear and warm – just loving it.
We’ve been hanging out with Mike & Viv for a few days having some rum, crashing peoples quiet and romantic dinner (sorry – it was the rum’s fault!), celebrating st patty’s day with some crazy irish, checking out the old Portuguese fort in Galle just north of where we are staying, surviving this crazy Sri Lankan disco bus ride with neon Buddha dancing at the front and eating some amazing curries – thanks Mike and Vivo – good times! Some photos from the past days below.
Just another weekend, wedding, surf contest and some samosas
All of a sudden there’s just one more weekend left for us in Sydney and the one after we’re leaving and oh yep this is my last working week for a while. Playing a bit of tetris with time and logistics – oh well Saturday we headed over to Manly because I wanted to see the Australian Open in surfing live on the Sunday and we got to catch up with Sofia and Dan for some curry to on the Saturday night.
Manly vibes always makes me happy – love it – Steph is hanging out with the WV 🙂
Another hipster coffee shop
Andy and James came by to check out some surfing to!
Tyler Wright in the Semi final making the chunky waves look so easy
Winner of the event – Miss Laura Enever
After the final we had some other business to attend to. 
These crazy cats (not Pax) had to get married before the big bang in Thailand next month! Not a bad way to end the weekend 🙂 
Early morning are you working?
Uh no not me – so we went down the coast on Saturday morning looking for some leftover swell. There wasn’t much left so I settled for some cheese & spinach rolls, a pod of dolphin and some little ripples at  sharkies beach.
  
Bumps from the coast!
So here it is – my first gopro action 🙂
Happy holidays & the new GoPro 4
Guess what I got for my birthday?! Oh yes a new GoPro the version 4 – I’m so spoilt, ha ha! Anyways it’s already Day 10 of our Christmas/New Years roadtrip on the South Coast and here’s some water shots from the last few days. We’ve got so many photos and videos but not to much internet. Waves been pretty small and the summer seems to be hiding somewhere 🙂 Anyways enjoy the holidays and we’ll see you next year 🙂 Lot’s of love <3
 This is one of my  all time faves on the South Coast – Green Island or Cunjurong point.
Let’s go surfing Paxito!
Water was even nice for body surfing…
The Maui Pro – last event of the year
I’m glued to the computer watching the last event of the year for the women pro surfers as is’s on! Right now Round 4 – the worlds four top surfers are all ready for the quarter finals – I think they will run quarter finals tomorrow – waves looks amazing! Courney Conolouge just scored a  19.40 heat total – some amazing surfing happening!